We celebrate the winter holidays enriched with customs and traditions of many cultures of our diverse communities in Laurel. According to the 2020 U.S. Census, our city is made up of approximately 49% Black or African American, 21% Hispanic and Latino, 16% White (non-Hispanic) and 8% Asian. Interestingly, 32.7% of our city’s population is foreign born. This mix brings a rich tapestry of celebrations and festivities in our area.
A big chunk of Laurel consists of Black and African American families. Beautiful in national costumes and matching traditional outfits like Aso-ebi, they celebrate Christmas with church services, gospel music, family reunions and community. From Dec. 26 to Jan. 1, many celebrate Kwanzaa, a cultural way to honor African heritage, community and family values. On New Year’s Eve, they have the Watch Night services to welcome the new year. Food, fun and family are trademarks of many African communities like those from Nigeria or other areas. Foods like jollof rice, roasted chicken, meat pies, steamed bean pudding or moin-moin, stews or soups, and drinks such as zobo, a hibiscus-based drink, and palm wine grace the African table. Hispanic and Latino families from El Salvador, Mexico and other areas celebrate Christmas in a religious way with nacimientos (nativity scenes), at home. They also have the posadas, which is a procession or reenactment of Joseph and Mary’s search for lodging in Bethlehem. On Noche Buena (Christmas Eve), some attend La Misa del Gallo (midnight mass) in estrenos or new clothes, then they go home and feast on tamales and lechon. On Ano Nuevo (New Year’s Eve), families eat 12 grapes at one minute to midnight to bring in good luck for the next 12 months of the new year. El Salvadorans crack an egg in a glass of water right at midnight and interpret what the new year brings based on the shape of the yolk. And then comes la hora de los abrazos, the hour of hugs. On Fiesta de Los Reyes, the Feast of the Three Kings, they give little treats to their children just like the wise men brought gifts to the infant Jesus.
As I write my column a week before Thanksgiving, my heart is filled with gratitude and nostalgia for the family traditions I grew up with and brought with me to Laurel. In a few weeks, my family will retrieve Christmas lights and four wreaths from the garage to deck our windows. The spirit of Christmas is not complete without the parol, or the Philippine lantern adorned with pulsating lights inside star-shaped capiz shells gifted by my oldest brother. Last year, I wrote about the story of our Christmas tree. The tinsels we have collected hold historical significance and sentimental value we so cherish. As Catholic Christians, the central focus of our Christmas is the Niño Jesus, a woodcarved image of the Baby Jesus gifted by my mom during one of our family visits to the Philippines.
Where I grew up, the birth of Jesus is celebrated as early as September, when houses and malls are decked with Christmas trees and carols are played on the radio before the rest of the world does. Right before Christmas, our custom is to go to Simbang Gabi, the nine-day novena mass at night to prepare for the birth of Christ, which culminates with the midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Then we have the family noche buena, a stew that combines beef, pork, chicken and chorizo sausage in bone broth, cabbage, potatoes and green beans, and is a recipe by my maternal grandfather, Lolo Julian. We have it with bread and quezo de bola (the familiar Edam cheese found in local markets) and dessert is Lola Maria’s kalamay ube – a purple yam mixed with sugar and milk cooked for hours in a huge cauldron over a low fire.
On Christmas Day, we visit our godparents who bless us with aguinaldo (Christmas money), and we honor them with our mano po (kissing their hands as a sign of respect). On New Year’s Day, we hold the yearly family reunion with potluck lunch, dancing, singing and games.
In Laurel, we relish the native delicacies like a charcuterie of lumpia (spring rolls), atchara (grated papaya salad), mango cilantro salad (my Canadian cousins’ recipe), pancit bihon and chicken barbecue, etc. Many Filipino (and Hispanic) families in the area include roasted pig, called lechon, as part of the special treat. The closest Filipino markets we could get ingredients for the festivities are the Super Best International Supermarket along the Laurel-Bowie Road or dishes made to order from Manila Mart in Beltsville.
These are some of the traditions and practices during the winter holidays in and around Laurel which help build community and a way to celebrate together.